It’s a Golden Age for Golden State Chardonnay. A high bar for quality has been set, and there are more outstanding- and classic-scoring bottlings than ever. The wines—whether dis-tinctive single-vineyards or inspired regional blends—show exquisite balance between elegance and power. It’s no wonder that Chardonnay is the most popular white wine in the United States.
But it wasn’t always that way. Thanks to a group of vintners committed to excellence, Chardonnay has evolved in California from inconsistent wines to a landscape of expressive styles often built for the cellar. In this story, we profile seven Chardonnay titans, winemakers who have paved the way to the quality wine lovers expect today. Many were inspired by Burgundy, the grape’s spiritual home. But rather than just preserve tradition, these leaders have applied science and decades of experience to fine-tune their own methodologies, knowing that their decisions in the vineyard and cellar will have transparency in the wines they produce.
Here, we focus on winemakers who have had the biggest influence on California Chardonnay so far, but there are dozens of others who also elevate the category and are worthy of praise. For a look at some of the future’s potential legends, see “Talent Show,” beginning on page 55.
Mark Aubert
THE ARCHITECT
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der July 31, 2022-Ausgabe von Wine Spectator.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der July 31, 2022-Ausgabe von Wine Spectator.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
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Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Öland, an island off the coast of Sweden—and it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern Rhône to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term “foodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.
