Sauvignon Blanc, California Style

New techniques in the vineyard yield a broader spectrum of flavors

- By Maryann Worobiec

The continued surge of terrific Sauvignon Blancs from California has cemented the wine’s reputation as one of the most consistent and affordable whites in the state. What’s even more exciting for fans of this complex, fragrant and refreshing variety is how many different expressions there are. The examples I have reviewed over the past year represent impressive quality across a diverse mix of styles.

In recent years, I have been highlighting the various means by which Golden State producers have shown their enthusiasm for Sauvignon Blanc, including the use of updated farming techniques and cellar practices, the employment of a range of fermentation vessels and an increased focus on ageability.

All of these efforts have resulted in a category of wine that defies a single style. Sauvignon Blanc’s signature juicy acidity shows through, as does its telltale core of citrus and stone fruit flavors, yet the bottlings under review reveal a range of textures and a variety of aromatics, including herbal, floral, mineral and tropical notes.

“What’s special [about Sauvignon Blanc] is its ability to show different characteristics and styles,” says Quintessa winemaker Rebekah Wineburg. “I would argue that’s what makes it one of the great grape varieties—it can do all that and still have an ability to show terroir.”