Grande Torino
South African Garden and Home|April 2019

Baroque architecture, splendid shopping and delicious food and wine make Turin, a former World Design Capital, a must-see writes Judy Bryant

Judy Bryant
Grande Torino

Why do you want to go to Turin? Isn’t it very, well, industrial? This was the usual comment when I announced that I was joining a friend in this north-western Italian city, the capital of Piedmont. Yes, industry does underpin the capital of the Piedmont region – the Fiat factory was founded there in 1899, and Olivetti is based in nearby Ivrea.

However, the well-established northern businesses also ensure support for arts and culture, and patrons for the stylish cafés and restaurants. Think world-famous wines, truffles, hazelnuts, chocolate and plump, al dente risotto. Not to mention customers for the flourishing clothing and perfume houses, and the manufacturers of gorgeous shoes and handbags.

But let’s start at the beginning. We booked a two-bedroom, two-bathroom Airbnb apartment only a few bus stops from the city centre for around R650 a day. I flew to Milan to meet my friend, and from there we caught a train to Turin. Our host, Mattia, a keen cook, welcomed us and was soon pointing out his pale pink vintage Smeg oven and collection of Moka stovetop coffee makers. He encouraged us to source ingredients at the nearby Porto Palazzo fruit and vegetable market - the largest indoor market in Europe - and shared a list of delightful restaurants in his multicultural neighbourhood.

The next day, we took an Eco City Tour to get an overview of the gorgeous Baroque architecture. The electric minibus scooted silently through the city centre and we were bowled over by Coffee shop in Alba.

Turin cityscape viewed from the Superga Basilica.the city’s understated elegance.

Turin was part of the French-speaking Savoy principality from the 11th to 18th centuries, and its squares contain beautiful buildings built by the Savoy royal family. We were surrounded by palaces, museums and art galleries in a refined colour palette of pale greys, stone and duck-egg blue.

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