The Other Charleston

With a new generation committed to renewing their city, West Virginia’s capital is on the rise.

- Courtney Balestier

IT USED TO BE THAT only outdoor enthusiasts—climbers, rafters, or people who display more mental fortitude than I when confronted with great heights or drops—ever talked to me about vacationing in my home state of West Virginia. The only state wholly in Appalachia, full of rugged mountains, powerful rapids, and a mere 1.8 million people, West Virginia is not known for its cities. But when I was a kid, that’s exactly what Charleston was: the city. Our capital, located about two and a half hours southwest of Morgantown (where I grew up), was bigger and more exciting than anything else at home.

My reasons for traveling here have changed, and so has Charleston itself. West Virginia’s largest city, with 49,138 residents, it is still the political heart of the state, with a professional class populated by politicians, lawyers, and lobbyists. But it has also become an urban destination in its own right, cool and cultural, with a diverse roster of attractions and a geographical situation— where the Elk and Kanawha rivers converge—that’s stunning, even by high Mountain State standards. Charleston is also convenient: A short flight from Southern hubs like Charlotte and Atlanta, it’s becoming a popular spot for far-flung friends to meet for a short vacation.

Like so many other small American cities, Charleston is now experiencing a rebirth. It’s largely at the hands of some young, creative entrepreneurs who are breathing new life into old buildings and doubling down on their roots with new businesses that could only exist here— though they come in the familiar shapes of bookstores and gift shops.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

CAPITOL MARKET

Housed in a restored 19th-century freight station, this mainstay includes an outdoor market filled with local goods and an indoor array of vendors and shops. capitolmarket.net