La vie en rose

James Clark explores the southern French destination of Toulouse, aka the Pink City, to explore its meandering terracotta streets, hidden courtyards, gourmet food and friendly gay scene

- James Clark

If you're a foodie, rugby enthusiast, or you just enjoy being in a relaxed yet lively atmosphere (or all three), then book yourself a weekend in the blushing pink city of Toulouse.

The southern French city nicknamed 'La Ville Rose' thanks to its assortment of terracotta brickwork buildings has many facets to its character. Its proximity to the border with Spain means that the Spanish have been coming to Toulouse for centuries. After the Second World War, more than 100,000 relocated to make it their home. Consequently, today's city is a melting pot of both cultures. Adding to Toulouse's vibe are the fresh faces of the 100,000-strong French and Spanish university students that make up nearly a quarter of the population. Business-wise, the fourth largest city in France is linked to the aeronautics and aerospace industries and is currently exploding with startups. On the cultural side of things, the jazz, techno and LGBTQ+ scenes are equally buzzing.

An attractive place to explore first is the traditional old quarter, which is filled with various coral-colored shopfronts, palaces, and churches. I leave the Citiz Hotel (18, allées JeanJaurès), where I'm staying in the action-packed heart of the city, and take a stroll through the medieval antique dealer's district around Les Allées Brocante. Only the French could make dusty old books look chic. Here, the streets are filled with mansions featuring towers and courtyards built during the Renaissance period. Many courtyard doors are wide open - am I invited? I check with a group of students who assure me it is OK to enter. I take a wander around a few and decide to pop into the tourist information office on Square Charles de Gaulle later to find out more.