Bhutan On The Cusp Of Change

Luxury travel may seem at odds with immersive experiences, but it is a good way to protect the ancient kingdom from the ravages of mass tourism

- Marlene Tan

Khedrupchen Rinpoche Ugyen Tenzin Thinley Lhendup is a modern-day rinpoche (a Tibetan term which means “precious one” in reference to a holy man). Instead of reading from a book of scriptures, he is reciting sutras from a tablet as he blesses a line of guests and villagers carrying either sickles or babies at their hips. The Bhutanese revere the powers of such a blessing, especially when it is bestowed by a rinpoche reincarnate. Khedrupchen Rinpoche, 38, is believed to be the fifth reincarnation of Khedrup Jigme Kundrol, a respected Buddhist teacher and monk.

Druk Asia, a Bhutan travel specialist that has put together my trip, has arranged for me to meet Khedrupchen Rinpoche at Gangtey, a picturesque valley dotted with marshlands, potato farms and blue pine forests 3,000 metres above sea level, four hours from the capital of Thimphu by car. I have wanted to learn what Buddhism means to a population known for religious piety, and if it has anything to do with the Bhutanese formula for happiness. After all, Bhutan is famously known as the Happy Kingdom.

Secret Shangri-La

Emerald panoramas fringed with snow-capped Himalayan peaks, postcard-perfect fortresses and towns peopled with the most disarmingly charming folk beckon tourists to Bhutan.

Landlocked between India and Tibet, Bhutan has never been colonised and marches to its own drumbeat. It is a country like no other. Its proud people believe in magical penises that can slay monsters and turn into propellers for transporting one across the country. The most famous of these magical appendages is Drukpa Kunley’s. The legendary monk’s member is enshrined in lurid paintings on the walls of many houses; many pray to him for fertility at Chimi Lhakhang, a temple in Punakha.