A Change In The Air

Perfumes have long been targeted at either men or women, but the rise of gender neutrality is causing this sector of the beauty industry to rethink its formulations and marketing strategies. Esquire singapore asked paris-based magique,an olfactory studio that specialises in the creation of sensory experiences, to gain insights from perfumers and fashion creatives on their views of this trend and how it is impacting them.

- Mazen Nasri & Philae Rollet

NOTES FROM THE PERFUME INDUSTRY

Olivier Pescheux

Givaudan perfumer

Creations: 34 boulevard Saint Germain Diptyque, Amber Sky Ex Nihilo, Arpege Pour Homme Lanvin, 1 Million Paco Rabanne, Balmain Homme Pierre Balmain, Higher Christan Dior

ESQ: In hindsight, do you find that trends, current events or cultural movements have an impact on your creations?

OLIVIER PESCHEUX: It’s hard to answer with certainty. Nevertheless, perfumers are like sponges absorbing the air of time (Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps is one of the most accurate names you can find). Hence every societal movement leaves its mark on creations, in a more or less obvious way. It’s still too early to know in what ways the current health crisis will leave its mark in perfume, but it will leave its mark, that’s for sure.

ESQ: Do you attribute gender to certain notes and raw materials?

OLIVIER PESCHEUX: Not really, but it’s true that I perceive rose as rather feminine simply because it has been used a lot and in significant quantities in women’s fragrances in the West. That’s less true in the Middle East, where the rose also perfumes men. Lavender is rather masculine as it’s used a lot in fougère, the favourite family of men’s fragrances. It’s interesting to note that in Brazil, lavender is also feminine. So it’s more of a cultural affair. I’m trying to fight against this natural and cultural leaning, and on the contrary, I use this challenge to fuel my creativity.

ESQ: Do you believe the future of perfume is genderless?