Cold Comforts
New York magazine|December 7-20, 2020
Two downtown Asian-inspired kitchens brave the elements with distinctly personal, creative cooking.
By Adam Platt
Cold Comforts

Spotting hopeful dining trends isn’t easy these days, but if you look closely, it’s possible to divine a few green shoots of promise rising here and there around the city’s increasingly chilly, covid-challenged restaurant landscape. Anyone who has perused the bountiful holiday delivery treats available around town knows that the takeout business continues to blossom. As an avid consumer of grains, sauces, and coffee beans, I have also enjoyed the new “pantry” option that has been sprouting up lately on local restaurants’ websites. Inventive Asian cooking at small, nimble establishments like Connie Chung’s excellent Chinese café, Milu, in the Flatiron District, seems to be on the upswing, too, and like at Milu, which Chung opened after a long stint at Eleven Madison Park, many of these accomplished chefs happen to be women.

Kay Hyun, whose latest East Village “Korean tapas” restaurant, Mokyo, opened in February, also labored for a variety of grand male chefs (Jean-Georges, Nobu) before striking out on her own. Her first popular East Village restaurant, Thursday Kitchen, specializes in comfort recipes like sweet-and-spicy popcorn chicken and empanadas stuffed with duck confit, but this latest venture has clearly been conceived with a slightly more intricate brand of cooking in mind. There are two varieties of Wagyu on the menu (steak and oxtail) and delicate salads made with winter persimmons and vinaigrettes flavored with cashew, and if you call for the house dumplings, you’ll find them folded around deposits of sweet-corn purée and set in pools of salsa verde touched with truffles.

Diese Geschichte stammt aus der December 7-20, 2020-Ausgabe von New York magazine.

Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.

Diese Geschichte stammt aus der December 7-20, 2020-Ausgabe von New York magazine.

Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.

WEITERE ARTIKEL AUS NEW YORK MAGAZINEAlle anzeigen
Drowning in Slop - A thriving underground economy is clogging the internet with AI garbage-and it's only going to get worse.
New York magazine

Drowning in Slop - A thriving underground economy is clogging the internet with AI garbage-and it's only going to get worse.

SLOP started seeping into Neil Clarke's life in late 2022. Something strange was happening at Clarkesworld, the magazine. Clarke had founded in 2006 and built into a pillar of the world of speculative fiction. Submissions were increasing rapidly, but “there was something off about them,” he told me recently. He summarized a typical example: “Usually, it begins with the phrase ‘In the year 2250-something’ and then it goes on to say the Earth’s environment is in collapse and there are only three scientists who can save us. Then it describes them in great detail, each one with its own paragraph. And then—they’ve solved it! You know, it skips a major plot element, and the final scene is a celebration out of the ending of Star Wars.” Clarke said he had received “dozens of this story in various incarnations.”

time-read
10+ Minuten  |
September 23 - October 6, 2024
The City Politic- The Other Eric Adams Scandal The NYPD shot a fare evader, a cop, and two bystanders. He defends it.
New York magazine

The City Politic- The Other Eric Adams Scandal The NYPD shot a fare evader, a cop, and two bystanders. He defends it.

On Sunday, September 15, Derell Mickles hopped a turnstile, got asked to leave by cops, then entered the subway again ten minutes later through an emergency exit. This was at the Sutter Avenue L station, out by his mother's house, five stops from the end of the line. Police said they noticed he was holding a folded knife. They followed him up the stairs to the elevated train, asking him 38 times to drop the weapon.

time-read
5 Minuten  |
September 23 - October 6, 2024
Can the Media Survive?
New York magazine

Can the Media Survive?

BIG TECH, Feckless Owners, CORD-CUTTERS, RESTIVE STAFF, Smaller Audiences ... and the Return of PRINT?

time-read
5 Minuten  |
October 21 - November 03, 2024
Status Update
New York magazine

Status Update

Hannah Gadsby's fascinatingly untidy tour through life after fame and death.

time-read
5 Minuten  |
October 21 - November 03, 2024
A Matter of Perspective
New York magazine

A Matter of Perspective

A Matter of Perspective Steve McQueen's worst film is still a solid WWII drama.

time-read
3 Minuten  |
October 21 - November 03, 2024
Creator, Destroyer
New York magazine

Creator, Destroyer

A retrospective reveals an architect's vision, optimism, and supreme arrogance.

time-read
5 Minuten  |
October 21 - November 03, 2024
In Praise of Bad Readers
New York magazine

In Praise of Bad Readers

In a time of war, there is a danger in surveying the world as if it were a novel.

time-read
10+ Minuten  |
October 21 - November 03, 2024
Trust the Kieran Culkin Process
New York magazine

Trust the Kieran Culkin Process

First, he nearly dropped out of Oscar hopeful A Real Pain. Then he convinced Jesse Eisenberg to change the way he directs.

time-read
8 Minuten  |
October 21 - November 03, 2024
The Funniest Vampires on TV
New York magazine

The Funniest Vampires on TV

What We Do in the Shadows is coming to an end. Its idiosyncratic brand of comedy may be too.

time-read
5 Minuten  |
October 21 - November 03, 2024
The Water-Tower Penthouse
New York magazine

The Water-Tower Penthouse

Gigi Loizzo and Angel Molina's apartment on the Grand Concourse in the Bronx looks out on Yankee Stadium.

time-read
2 Minuten  |
October 21 - November 03, 2024