High Sushi Theater
New York magazine|January 7, 2019

Everything about Sushi Noz, from the room to the performatory cooking itself, is designed to transport you straight to Japan—or an idealized version of it.

Adam Platt
High Sushi Theater

THE GREAT SUSHI omakase craze has been spreading like wildfire through the upper realms of the city’s high roller dining scene for decades now, but lately the situation seems to have taken an even more elaborate turn. Travel the circuit of discreet new tasting joints around town (with a sizable wad of cash in your pocket, of course) and you’ll find unitopped slivers of A5 Miyazaki beef (Sushi Ginza Onodera), and nori hand rolls stuffed with caviar (Uchu Kaiseki Counter). You’ll find monied young restaurateurs recruiting talent not from Los Angeles, like in the old days, but from decorated establishments in Japan (Amane, Noda), and you’ll see such a rainbow of different styles (box-pressed, locally caught, Kansai- influenced, L.A.style, edomae, vegan) that the aficionados and fat cats who keep track of such trends will sometimes whisper that, these days, New York might actually be a more interesting place for top-line sushi than Tokyo.

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