Third Time, Another Charm

Reyes Mezcaleria, Jason Chin’s venture into Mexican cuisine, is a winner, with an experienced staff turning out both the familiar and fantastic.

- Joseph Hayes

IT WOULD BE difficult to find a more diverse restaurant portfolio than the three establishments owned by Jason Chin. Seito Sushi offers faultless Japanese nigiri, scratch ramen and kitchen dishes tempered by world cuisine. The Osprey Tavern has a menu of dazzling American creations singing with Spanish and Italian accents. Reyes Mezcaleria, the newest venture in downtown Orlando’s North Quarter, takes its cues from regional Mexican cooking in a hip, casual atmosphere. There’s even an internet forum pun about frequenting all three, referred to as Triple-Chinning.

As the baby of the bunch, the Reyes menu has undergone a shifting evolution since since it opened in May. “We want the food to be approachable and humble, but still exciting,” Chin says. “I’ll never claim what we serve is 100 percent authentic, I call it regionally inspired Mexican cuisine.” The Reyes staff contributes years of experience in Mexican kitchens to the inspiration: a chef from Vera Cruz; a “tortilla lady” from Mexico City; waiters and sous contributing family recipes and fine-tuning.

“I’ll find a particular recipe,” Chin says, “and then hear 10 different family variations. The experience of someone in the kitchen, something we find during our travels or even read in a cookbook is enough to get the dialogue started.”