THE ART OF SAVOIR FAIRE

Created in Cartier’s high jewellery ateliers, the awe-inspiring Udyana necklace showcases the emblematic style and colour palette of Tutti Frutti designs from the 1920s. Allyson Klass writes.

- Allyson Klass

Jacques Cartier boarded the Polynesia in 1911 and set sail on his first voyage to India. His trip coincided with the Delhi Durbar, a two-week-long spectacle celebrating George V’s coronation as the Emperor of India. Smitten by the richness of the Indian civilisation, its jewellery culture of vibrant colours and traditional craftsmanship of cabochons set in local designs, the Parisian jeweller quickly sought out established gemstone merchants in Bombay, Calcutta and Delhi.

The Mughals, who ruled northern India until the 18th century, were known to indulge in their love of ornaments and precious stones. They had imperial workshops in Rajasthan, where skilled artisans employed unique techniques in relief cutting and hollowing out emeralds, blue sapphires, and red spinels that were then known as Balas rubies. These precious gems were assembled to form captivating botanical motifs on bracelets, wristwatches and brooches – reminiscent of a glistening garden of exuberant stones, which is a signature aesthetic of the Mughal style.

Elaborate designs bearing fluted and gadrooned beads, and also carved gemstone leaves, flowers and berries, were especially emblematic of Mughal jewellery. They inspired Cartier to create pieces with three main colours: red, green and blue – a never-before-seen combination in the West.