Past Future Perfect

In this second instalment of our coverage of Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva, we spotlight manufactures that look to the future as they push the limits of traditional watchmaking techniques and know-how

- ALLYSON KLASS

TAG HEUER

CARRERA PLASMA DIAMANT D'AVANT-GARDE CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON

In 2022, Diamant d'Avant-Garde technology enabled the manufacture to use lab-grown diamonds for the first time on a chronograph case, crown, dial and indexes. In line with the Carrera's 60th anniversary this year, the Swiss watchmaker is taking its Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) expertise a step further by adding lab-grown diamonds in custom shapes to this audacious timepiece's aluminum bezel and bracelet.

Signature Carrera features of a highly legible bi-compax dial and facetted lugs are maintained, while the case, bezel and bracelet are made of sleek, matte black sand-blasted anodised aluminum and set with lab-grown diamonds of various shapes. The 44mm case includes 4.3 carats of 48 lab-grown white diamonds, while the bezel features 26 diamonds totalling 1.9 carats. The bracelet holds 34 scintillating stones for a weight of 1.9 carats. An impressive 2.5-carat lab-grown diamond tops the crown.

The visually arresting 4.9-carat dial, composed of 12 white gold indexes set with lab-grown diamonds and three polycrystalline diamond plates, is one of this piece's most groundbreaking features. The spectacular result is achieved by growing a vast number of diamond crystals as one, as well as creating breathtaking reflections and light effects in a single diamond entity. These are just a few of the many creative applications of CVD.

The hours and minutes hands are rhodium-plated with matte black lacquer and white Super-Luminova for optimal legibility. At 3 and 9 o'clock are two elegantly contrasting minutes and hours chronograph sub-counters in black polycrystalline diamond that are animated by finely polished rhodium-plated hands.