The Greatest Show On Earth

Camp-hopping along the route of East Africa’s Great Migration, Iroshini Chua is awestruck by the region’s wild beauty and discovers the importance of local conservation efforts

In the distance, a cloud arose from the banks of the river, blanketing the opposite hillside. Within the mist was what looked like black ants scuttling up the slope in a mesmerising pattern of meandering columns. As we drew closer, the soaked bodies emerging from the water glistened and steamed in the morning sun, taking shape to reveal thousands upon thousands of wildebeest. The sheer number was bewildering.

Behind us was a scene equally as dramatic. The entire landscape was enveloped in freshly kicked up, swirling dust. The thunder of hooves of a thousand more animals running towards the river interspersed with the bleating of the wildebeest added to the deafening cacophony. Our jeep found a safe spot on the bank, offering front-row seats to view what many in the travel industry dubbed The Greatest Show on Earth.

As the wildebeest took to the Mara River with its strong currents, they were swiftly swept away and sometimes lodged between rocks. Limbs of the unfortunate were snapped off. Some rolled belly-up in the water, a sure sign of succumbing to the jaws of hidden crocodiles. The strong swimmers made it to the opposite bank only to be faced with an impossibly steep, slippery climb. Hooves-on-head, they were scrambling to get out and, in the process, drowned one another. Sadly, the injured survivors would be hyena prey by nightfall. Some survivors turned back towards the river – distressed mothers and young calves forming a lonely line, crying desperately for lost loved ones, a few even returning to the treacherous waters, perhaps confused or lost.