Reinterpreting Asian Cuisine

Twists on the familiar expand our culinary lexicon and bring new perspectives. But we must seek to understand the cuisine’s essence first, say chefs

- Grace Ma

Next to a holiday, the best way to explore the world is often a trip through the palate. As chefs paint their experiences and favourite memories on their dishes, a meal becomes a transportive learning journey.

To this end, reinterpreted Asian cuisine strikes an interesting chord— diners either leave with dissonance from the oxymoronic flavours, or intrigue at hitherto-thought impossible pairings that expand one’s taste vocabulary. The debate can be intense and deeply personal (almost every chef points to his or her mother as the primary inspiration). How do we balance between respecting traditional recipes and taking creative liberties?

A TIME AND PLACE FOR EVERYTHING

Home-based chef Patricia Chen of Sekel Kitchen, who is well-known for her traditional Hakka dishes such as abacus seeds and ginger chicken in homemade rice wine, is all for incorporating new techniques into traditional recipes, as long as the intention is clearly defined.

She says: “The key is in communicating correctly what is traditional, an interpretation or an invention with Asian produce or methods. If the dish claims to be a traditional rendition, then I would expect integrity in texture and taste, and not some form of ice cream, emulsion or wafer. We shouldn’t mess with provenance as it affects the story we tell to our children.”