Keeping up with the times

What does a new crop of luxury watches tell us about the direction of travel in this most stately of industries?

- CHRIS HALL

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

The world of luxury watches can be bemusing to follow from afar, with its never-ending talk of hyped-up fashion collaborations, tourbillons and titanium at one end, and intense technical jargon at the other. It helps, I find, to consider everything on a spectrum from tradition to modernity: every watch brand is engaged in a constant dialogue with its past while fighting to stay relevant in a rapidly changing world.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th anniversary watch

SLICK OVERHAUL

A good example is one of the biggest stories in the watch world this year, the 50th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. As both the single most influential design of the last half-century and one of the most in-demand watches right now, Audemars Piguet was never going to overhaul it drastically, instead playing it safe with a range of new designs that delighted purists, while introducing a new automatic movement as a reminder that substance, as well as style, has a part to play.

Patek Philippe's Ref 5470 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

Ploughing a similar furrow is Vacheron Constantin, which stole the show at 'Watches and Wonders' in Geneva in April with a revival of its 1970s icon Historique 222 in period-correct yellow gold.

This left all eyes on Patek Philippe, whose Nautilus is commonly bracketed alongside the Royal Oak and 222 as part of a 'holy trinity' of 1970s designs that melted the divide between high-end luxury and sporty, practical design. Last year Patek discontinued the Ref 5711 Nautilus, before stoking demand to new heights by releasing limited-edition 'end-of-run' models, most notably in collaboration with Tiffany's.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver