AS OLD AS TIME

In a 200-year-old haveli in Jaipur, NEETOLE MITRA rediscovers the splendour of the bygone Rajputana era.

- NEETOLE MITRA

IT WAS NOVEMBER 2020. The first wave of COVID-19 was on the ebb, which brought hope and respite for travel-starved souls like me. So, I moved swiftly, dusted my backpack, and set out to bask in the warmth of my favourite winter destination—Jaipur. I have a soft spot for India’s wild west.

Incredible stories lurk in its alleys. Colourful safas (turbans), dusty mochdis, vibrant odhnis, and the chunky jewellery of its locals complement the golden hues of the landscape, and the heart-wrenching notes of kamaicha and ravanhatta (stringed instruments) tell the tales of Rajputana glory.

I meet Vipul Bansal, director of Virasat Experiences, over a cup of coffee at one of the plush cafes in C Scheme. He has been helping visitors explore Jaipur for more than 25 years and is always ready to share fascinating anecdotes about the city he has spent all his life in. He begins narrating the tale of a 270-year-old haveli in Jaipur’s Johri Bazaar. “Back when it was built along with the rest of the city, that part of Johri Bazaar was known as Chowkri Vishweshwar Ji and was surrounded by lush gardens. As the city expanded, merchants and artisans from around the country poured in to claim their share in its prosperity. Soon, new havelis replaced the gardens,” Bansal explains.