Electric Once More

After three years of near-total closure, Hong Kong is finally back on the tourist map. CHRIS DONG returns to the city to determine what's changed and what's better than ever.

- CHRIS DONG

IT SEEMED ALMOST too good to be true. After 34 months of hard quarantine rules and ever-shifting regulations that scared off all but the most determined travellers, Hong Kong announced in late 2022 that it would drop almost all COVID restrictions. These days, only a self-administered rapid test is required of visitors coming from the US.

I jumped at the chance to be one of the first Americans to enter under the newly relaxed rules. Though I hadn’t been to Hong Kong since May 2019, this would be my 12th visit to the city—a place that my parents once called home. Much has changed, as a result of both the pandemic and recent political turmoil, including protests against government curbs on freedom of expression. Yet I still found much to enjoy, not least

Hong Kong’s blend of Chinese and international cultural influences—a mix that, as a Chinese American, resonates particularly strongly for me.

“Now more than ever, we want to remind travellers what there is to love about our city—its rich and layered culture, its historic-meets-contemporary atmosphere,” says Hugo Montanari, managing director of the Rosewood Hong Kong (doubles from ₹67,788; rosewood hotels.com).

Here’s how to make the most of a trip, whether it’s your first, or just your first in a while.

WHAT’S NEW AROUND TOWN