The only way out is down. Once you’ve started inching down the (in)famous Van Zyl’s Pass, there’s no turning around.
When you reach the bottom, the road eases and you’re suddenly on the flat, grassy Marienfluss. The stress of negotiating the pass gives way to bliss. This feels more like a holiday. You follow in the tracks of your tour leader, and stop where he stops. You take a photo at Rooidrom, the red diesel drum that has marked a major crossroads in this wilderness for decades.
This is the Kaokoveld, and coming here is a commitment. You have left the easy world behind – no petrol stations, no fast-food joints, no cellphone signal. The only easy road here is the C43, which, if you’re coming from the south, takes you from Palmwag to Sesfontein to Opuwo before it terminates at Epupa Falls.
West of that are all 4x4 tracks, some gnarlier than others. You need a GPS, a serious bakkie and enough fuel and water for at least a week. But that’s okay because you wouldn’t be here if you didn’t want to be, and you’re ready.
Now to slowly succumb to the rhythms of the land. The going is slow. The convoy of bakkies turns south, aiming for Orupembe. An Ovahimba standing on a koppie to the side of the road will hear the low purr of diesel engines and the clinking of rocks as all-terrain tyres finally meet the terrain they were made for.
You look out, searching. You spot a small herd of springbok. Above, an augur buzzard, not a bird you’ll see in South Africa, but the Kaokoveld is one of its strongholds. You see the Ovahimba and lift a hand to wave. People live here, you think, and it comes as a shock when you consider the realities of carving out an existence here as a nomadic herder.
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der April 2020-Ausgabe von go! - South Africa.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
Bereits Abonnent ? Anmelden
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der April 2020-Ausgabe von go! - South Africa.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
Bereits Abonnent? Anmelden
Rolling out the big guns
If you're still scanning the horizon for a Chinese automotive invasion you're looking the wrong way. It's already happening, and the new GWM Tank is the off-road spearhead into the highly lucrative and hotly contested lifestyle market.
TAKE A HIKE
The beautiful agony of Tienuurkop
Time out in Dullies
A long weekend in Dullstroom is just long enough to make you realise you need to spend several more weekends here! There's food, drink, art and action in abundance. Here's your guide.
Gallivanting in the Galápagos!
The Galápagos Islands are on many a traveller's wish list. They were on Hanlie and Vivian Gericke's too, even though the price of visiting made their eyes water. Was it worth it? Read on...
BURCHELL AND THE COUNTRY OF THE BUSHMEN
How many times have you driven through a landscape and wished you could have seen it centuries ago? In 1811, the English artist and explorer, William John Burchell, travelled through South Africa. Join us as we follow in his footsteps.
Long live the Hibiscus Coast
The KZN South Coast is a national treasure. It's still the place to go if you want a classic seaside holiday complete with warm waves, cold beer, soft serve and good vibes. Here's your guide.
The island at the end of the earth
Imagine adlace-with the cleanest air arid:the clearest seawater, where_no human.oranimabwants to:harm you: A placewhere the climates balmy. year-round:-with a sekrhistory ahd wwild scenery. A place like this:exist8” and it’s called St Helena.
A day on the road
You never know what the road will bring. Toast Coetzer heads south on the N1 and discovers South Africa.
The wilder shore
The final leg of a 30-day trek across East Africa sees lan Tyrer and the Africa - Wild & Untamed crew explore both shores of Lake Malawi. Get ready for an overloaded ferry, a croc attack and being surrounded by elephants...
A river runs through it
Sabie is onthe Drakensberg escaromentialongMpumalanga’s famous Panorama Route. Want a weekend away surrounded by forests and waterfalls? Here's wnat you need to know.