Ntsikeni: of cattle and cranes

Ntsikeni Vlei Nature Reserve takes its name from its most prominent peak, which pierces the sky above the rolling grasslands

Locals named the mountain after the central pillar of a rondavel, the ntsika, which must be strong, straight and true to maintain the home's structure. But it's impossible to talk about Ntsikeni without simultaneously mentioning Daluxolo 'Dalu' Ngcobo. He is as much the ntsika of this landscape as the mountain tall, strong and key to keeping the roof on in a storm.

Ntsikeni is about as remote as one can be in South Africa. It took a full day from Johannesburg, smoothly dropping from the Highveld down to Howick on the N3, negotiating potholes to Creighton, then forestry roads to the reserve gate, followed by a wild 12-kilometre African massage in the twin cab. But the landscape will take your breath away, the stonechats and longclaws and buzzards and cranes and vultures will encourage you onward, and you will be greeted at the lodge with a deep belly laugh and a story or three from Dalu on your arrival.

The lodge itself is basic, but also spectacular. It has all a birder needs: a hot shower, fully equipped kitchen and braai, comfortable beds, a heavenly view and easy access to the best birding. And that birding I have never seen so many cranes, both Grey Crowned and Wattled. We studied Cape Vultures from above and marvelled at the rusty-fronted, Dali-esque Bearded Vultures patrolling the cliffs. We cursed Denham's Bustards that refused to pose for photographs, and we greeted Jackal Buzzards with familiarity while they eyed us with suspicion.