SHARED PLATES, Savoured SLOWLY

Setting off on a foraging expedition in Nagaland, Isha Mayer learns what it truly means to lead a sustainable culinary lifestyle

- Isha Mayer

As I enter the traditional kitchen at Anok’s–a coffee farmer who invited us for lunch–I see a woman sitting by the fireplace, preparing rice in an earthen pot. I learn later that it’s a staple in Naga cuisine. As the smoke travels up, I see pieces of pork hung on the racks close to the ceiling. The embers help preserve the meat for weeks. In another earthen vessel, pork is being prepared with smoked Naga chilli, salt and a sour herb, Soreihan, or Aukat, in Konyak, one of the tribes of Nagaland. The hot rice and pork are then served on a banana leaf on a bamboo plate and shared with all of us present there. What I witnessed was Nagaland’s community-style living, a concept of shared responsibility, which is big in its culture.

Living in the fast-paced city of Mumbai, I often forget the importance of conscious, healthy eating and barely make it home in time to enjoy a family dinner. My visit to Nagaland– along with the team of OMO - Soul Food Community–brought me close to the culture, its people and their food. It reminded me what it truly means to eat seasonally and sustainably with loved ones.

Led by three women–chef Vanshika Bhatia, Grace Muivah and Deepika Sethi, OMO’s foundation lies on its ingredient-first notion. The Gurugram-based cafe embarks on foraging expeditions to bring you stories about how each ingredient plays a role in getting communities together. This is reflected in its dishes, justifying ingredient-to-table in its purest form. Nagaland was one such trip where the locals generously opened their homes to us, cooked food, and shared it with us. Two Naga natives, Grace and OMO’s Culture Chief Athan Zimik, guided us along the way.

SUSTAINABLE SOURCING