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As you read this issue, a titan of watchmaking will have just celebrated his 90th birthday. Plenty of watches make it well past this mark but this reminds us that mere mortals often do not, even an august personage such as Kurt Klaus. In a leap year that sees the WOW team pay special attention to perpetual calendars, we were nevertheless surprised to learn of this momentous occasion while doing research on the aforementioned complication. Klaus is, of course most famous for his seminal work on the perpetual calendar for IWC, where he made a mark that is still felt today. If you have an IWC perpetual calendar from the Klaus era onwards, you bear testament to this legacy.
The perpetual calendar at IWC has two distinct phases before Kurt Klaus and after Kurt Klaus. As noted in our special in the Autumn issue of WOW, the perpetual calendar has not had many significant developments in the last 100 years. One of the few developments worth taking note of was Klaus' work in 1980s. According to IWC and plenty of published reports, Klaus was IWC's head watchmaker in the early 1980s, and he had it in mind to do the unthinkable improve on the mechanical perpetual calendar. To cut the suspense, this would go on to become the criminally underrated Da Vinci Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in 1985. Them's fighting words, as they say but it all makes sense when you consider that the all-indications-adjusted-by-one-crown system emerged from this multi-complication.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der Legacy 2024-Ausgabe von WOW Singapore.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
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SMART CONNECTIONS
With the T-Touch Connect Sport, Tissot tries to strike a balance between traditional watchmaking values and digital usefulness
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SPIRIT OF CONSERVATION
SORAL is a conservation group most famous for the activities related to its name: Save Our Rhinos Africa and India. Hublot has partnered with SORAI for four special editions now, with part of the sales benefitting the group's activities. We chat with SORAI founder, former England cricketeer Kevin Pietersen, about the challenges behind working to save animal species
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FINISHING TOUCHES
We take a different approach to Lang & Heyne in this wide-ranging discussion, as befits the brand's extremely limited production, devotion to hand craftsmanship and absence of big marketing
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THE CONVERSATION: TIME SHAPES UP
Rough winds do shake up watchmaking and this is when we least expect new directions. The debut of just one collection has changed the math and made many question the wisdom of banking so overwhelmingly on round watches. The editors of WOW debate the issue
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BLANCPAIN VILLERET CALENDRIER CHINOIS TRADITIONNEL
Perhaps the brand most significantly and consistently associated with the Chinese calendar, we had to close out this list with Blancpain's Chinese calendar model.
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STANDARD BEARER
Longines finds a way to elevate the classic round watch, with a bit of a precious twist
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RULE OF THIRDS
A. Lange & Söhne celebrated 30 years of the Lange 1 in 2024. Here is a brief look back at the story of this seminal watch, with some exclusive photography of the current models
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CELEBRATING MILESTONES
Franck Muller CEO Nicholas Rudaz talks up the partnership between his brand and Sincere Fine Watches
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SUBTLE DISTINCTIONS
The Toric's latest iteration is a callback to the gentleman's dress watch — and the collection has never looked more dapper
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WATCHING BRIEF
With up to three significant watch exhibitions coming together by happenstance here, the collecting community could scarcely have wished for better