We're getting used to hearing the word 'extreme' describe a vintage in Bordeaux, almost as much as 'historic' or 'unique'. But never used so often, or as pertinently, as for 2022 when the region faced historically warm and dry conditions with four heatwaves and intense summer drought.
Has every Bordeaux property and wine delivered on a potential promise of greatness in this extreme 2022 vintage? This is unlikely in any given year, admittedly; but no, they definitely have not. Is 2022 a Bordeaux vintage worth buying? Absolutely, without doubt.
We have to keep in mind, of course, that we're still tasting extremely young wines. Some inevitably put on their best make-up in time for the spring Primeurs tasting assessments, but winemakers were just as surprised as tasters when the wines were finally racked into barrels at the end of last year, finding the best to have freshness, structure, tannic plenitude, racy acidity and, above all, disarmingly brilliant drinkability.
The most desirable seem to wear the sunshine and heat well, have supple textures, excellent definition, long finishes and a sheer brightness and energy that have produced some of the most compelling wines I've ever tasted at this early stage.
Have some estates produced their best-ever bottles? Yes, they have. Why? Let's break it down...
Some say it's because the vines were stressed from much earlier in the season rather than having drought thrust upon them after a wet spring, and therefore they paced and braced themselves for the onslaught. If you go on a long hike with only a litre of water,' said one winemaker, 'you don't drink it all in the first hour.'
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der June 2023-Ausgabe von Decanter.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der June 2023-Ausgabe von Decanter.
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