Making a dessert is still cooking, as much as, say, cooking a piece of fish. It took me a long time to really learn this. Cooking requires you to engage your senses, no matter what you’re making. Intuition and feel have as strong a place in the sweet kitchen as they do in the savoury, sitting alongside skill and technique in the same way. The more you cook, the more you learn to trust your instincts.
Learn to understand sugar, which provides structure, but, just as importantly, seasoning. Think of sugar in the same way you do of salt in savoury food. It should amplify flavours, and should only be tasted when you want it to be a flavour. Use sugar to make fruit taste more intense, to balance the bitterness of coffee, as the base of caramel.
The use of salt and acid as seasonings is also incredibly important but often ignored in the pastry kitchen. I love using flavoured vinegars in fruit dishes, and a couple of flakes of Maldon sea salt on your ice cream is revolutionary the first time you try it.
I encourage you when creating desserts to think about what ingredients you have to hand or what’s excellent right now. Make that dish, tasting everything constantly as you go, and it will most likely be delectable.
THE RECIPE
RICOTTA ICE CREAM WITH MAGNOLIA SYRUP
The magnolia needs to remain the star here; the oil should just bolster it. I’m never a huge fan of tableside theatrics, but this dish really does look best when the magnolia syrup and oil are poured into the bowl as it’s served.
Serves 1
1 large scoop ricotta ice cream small pinch of Maldon salt magnolia petals, to serve
2 tbsp chilled magnolia syrup
1 tsp extra virgin olive oil
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