GAINSBOROUGH

Firm foundations and exquisite archival designs have kept the looms whirring for more than a century at this prestigious silk-weaving house

- JANET GLEESON

One of the last remaining silk-weaving houses in the UK, and the only one that still dyes its own yarns, Gainsborough may be rooted in tradition, but don't assume that makes it stuck in the past. Sustainability lies at the heart of its ethos, and plenty of leading designers from the world of interiors and fashion, including Saint Laurent, Paul Smith and Giles Deacon, are lining up to work with it. It's an amazing mill, quite inspirational, in a wonderful town. The whole process of working with them and the product is lovely,' enthuses Zandra Rhodes, one of the company's recent collaborators.

Reginald Warner, Gainsborough's founder, would doubtless be delighted to hear this glowing accolade. An understanding of the importance of good design and skilled craftsmanship was woven into the fabric of his being and, ever since his company's foundation, 120 years ago, working with leading designers was central to its success.

Family background underpinned Reginald's zeal. His father, Metford Warner, ran Jeffrey & Co, a leading 19th-century wallpaper manufacturer, commissioning work from top Arts & Crafts designers such as Walter Crane, Owen Jones, William Morris and William Burges. Metford tried to steer his son towards a professional career, but Reginald had other ideas: the world of textiles had a stronger pull than dusty ledgers and law books. "To deter him, his father organised an apprenticeship at the English Silk Weaving Company, a prominent textile manufacturer based in Ipswich. He was only allowed one visit a year, back to his family. Metford thought that would put him off, but it didn't; he loved it,' says Neil Thomas, Gainsborough's current managing director.