A stirring in our spirits

India drinks more whisky than any other country. But most of it has been flavoured neutral alcohol. The real stuff, made from grain, is now brewed locally, and has fans the world over. Pour a large one and cheer

- VIR SANGHVI

Real whisky, made in India, is well loved and regarded. Indri is served everywhere. Amrut went for the foreign market, earned a good reputation, and was eventually launched here.

Are you surprised by all the hype around highquality Indian whisky? A little taken aback, perhaps, by claims that Indian whiskies are among the best in the world? Staggered by the number of awards Indian whiskies are supposed to have won at international competitions that you have never heard of?

Scotch is usually made from barley. And McDowells' new single-malt, made in a small batch of 6,000 bottles, has a rich flavour reminiscent of Christmas pudding. It's a step up from the usual flavoured spirit.

Wasn't Indian whisky supposed to be so substandard that those who could afford to buy it always drank Scotch instead? How did Indian whisky reach these heights? 

Don't be overly impressed by claims that Indian whisky is better than Scotch or any other whisky. Because it is not that simple.

India has long been a whisky market, thanks to the British. Until the 1950s, the whisky-drinking classes drank imported Scotch. Then, as import controls were imposed, duties shot up and it became more and more difficult (and expensive) to import Scotch.

Many Indian entrepreneurs rushed to fill the vacuum. Importers of Scotch now tried to produce domestic whisky. But none of it tasted like Scotch for a very good reason: The way we made it.