Hops and dreams

A relative of marijuana, hops were a Teutonic introduction to British brewing culture and gave rise to the original working holiday

- John Wright

F EW plants I encounter on my walks fill me with as much excitement as the hop: its spiky, palmate leaves on Velcro vines that clamber over hedgerows, up trees and even climbing the full height of a telegraph pole’s tethering cable. 

The hop was introduced to England from Germany in the late 15th century, solely for the making of beer. It did, however, have a fight on its hands, as ale had existed for centuries, flavoured by various aromatic herbs. The distinction between the two was firm until the 19th century—indeed, many municipalities once forbade ale-makers from using hops in their brews. Today, the two terms are largely interchangeable, with the making of the old ales a matter for enthusiastic homebrewers alone.