Caviar, Calamari, and a Kardashian Sartiano's is a members-mostly club.

I FEEL LIKE EVERYONE here knows each other," said a friend on a visit to Sartiano's as we tore into a high-domed puck of olive-studded focaccia, oven-hot, and a TikTok- bait $48 plate of "caviar cannolis," gooey with mascarpone and American sturgeon, fridge-cold.

- MATTHEW SCHNEIER

A neighboring patron, a Long Island real-estate developer out on a girls' night-charmed to be offered a bite of our paccheri with Sunday sauce, large enough to require its own tray-confirmed. "I love all these private clubs," she said, ticking off a roomful of acquaintances and notables: the designer Ronny Kobo at a table of nine, some owners of the Setai hotel, a Trump-connected Israeli American heiress-divorcée. That wasn't even everyone. "All the Syrian Jews are here," she said.