Southern Comfort
India Today|12th August, 2024
Food can be medicine, magic and a medley of tradition and innovation: Avartana at ITC Maratha is the blueprint of how to break the mould, while honouring the materials that make it.
CHUMKI BHARADWAJ
Southern Comfort

Of the many things that Avartana manages adroitly, there are two that it accomplishes with aplomb. One, is actively challenging the perception of South Indian cuisine as just another cheap and cheerful alternative, presenting it instead as an exquisite fine dine option and the other is, elevating the concept of modernist food beyond the obvious parameters of pretty presentation and the usual foam and smoke brand of gastronomy. Don’t get me wrong, they serve up a gorgeous plate with each course, but each inventive stroke of culinary magic bears the feather touch of progressive thought balanced by traditional flavours making it a surprising, yet delicious odyssey.

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