Sharing's not caring? Restaurateur cuts up rough over diners eating on the cheap
The Guardian|November 09, 2024
Shortly after opening his north London restaurant, Hugh Corcoran noticed a pattern among some of his diners: large groups ordering tap water, starters and mains to share.
Morwenna Ferrier
Sharing's not caring? Restaurateur cuts up rough over diners eating on the cheap

So, he turned to social media, writing on Instagram last week: "Restaurants are not public benches. You are there to spend money."

By the weekend, his post had accrued 150 comments, some accusing him of being thoughtless, others in agreement. A debate was born.

The Belfast-born chef opened The Yellow Bittern three weeks ago. It has three members of staff, seats 18 people, and is only open for lunch on weekdays. If you want to book a table, you phone or send a postcard. Curiously, it's not on Instagram.

This early in its life, it should be in no position to change the way we eat. And yet thanks to its famous pies ("we do pies when we fancy doing pies"), his predilection for the long boozy lunch, and its old-fashioned setup - it's also cash only - Corcoran is attracting and dividing diners who take umbrage with being told there is a right way to have lunch.

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