Future of fashion is at stake

Clothing brand The Vampire’s Wife, co-founded by Susie Cave, helped define idiosyncratic British glamour. Its sudden closing down reflects an industry in peril

- Olivia Petter

Picture the perfect dress. It’s fitted and flattering. There are frills and flourishes in all the right places. And it manages to be somehow sophisticated, girlish and subversive all at the same time – like anyone wearing it is keeping a secret. Few brands make dresses like that today, but The Vampire’s Wife was one of them. Ever since It girl-turned-entrepreneur Susie Cave co-founded the label with Alex Adamson in 2014, it has been a cult classic among the style set. Worn everywhere from festival stages to royal weddings, the brand boasted the glitziest of fanbases, spanning from Kate Moss to the Princess of Wales, who wore its green Falconetti dress for an official royal portrait in 2022. Two years previously, Vogue named that gown the “dress of the decade”.

Imagine the surprise, then, when Cave announced earlier this week that The Vampire’s Wife would be shutting down. I received the news via email on Tuesday: “Despite a period of positive growth and sales, the upheaval in the wholesale market has had dramatic implications for the brand,” read a statement. “The Vampire’s Wife would like to express their heartfelt thanks to all clients, partners and those who have worn the brand these last 10 years. Your support has been invaluable, and we are deeply grateful.”

Cave followed up with her own farewell statement on Instagram, writing: “I say this with great sadness and want to express my undying gratitude to you all for your support. I wish to thank my extended family at The Vampire’s Wife who helped me create such beautiful things. I cannot describe how much you have all meant to me. I love you all, Susie x.”