Barcelona supporters warmly greet the trickle of Girona fans going into the away section at the Camp Nou. It's a nondescript Monday in April 2023, and among the travelling few are couples like Xavi Bautista and wife Monica, wearing the scarves of each club.
Xavi is a lifelong Girona fan from the days when they had three-figure crowds for home games, while Monica supports Barça. They're simply happy to be there, for Xavi to see Girona, whom he once watched play fifthtier football, in the same league as Barcelona. It's the only game of the season classed as so low risk that away fans are allowed to wear their club shirts in home sections.
The two clubs have never been rivals, since they've barely played each other. Girona, 62 miles north of the Catalan capital, are no threat. Els Blanquivermells hadn't played in La Liga until 2017 and, when they did, Barça fans were pleased for them. They have more fans in Girona than Girona, with coaches from the various supporters' clubs hitting the A7 motorway for every game at the Camp Nou.
Barcelona, on target to win the title, are 12 points clear of Real Madrid, with Cule fans relaxed and happy enough to applaud the visitors, who become only the third team to take a point at the Camp Nou all season. They want La Liga survival for little Girona, who have recovered from a poor start in their first season back in the top flight since relegation in 2019. There is applause, too, for the chants for Catalan independence, a sentiment both sets of fans share. It is a warm evening of mutual backslapping and appreciation. Girona have never beaten Barcelona. Both clubs know their place in the pecking order.
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