There's nothing subtle about Yügen nor is there meant to be. From the moment a meticulously groomed greeter ushers you into a glass-walled elevator that drops into the highceilinged, stone-walled, dramatically lit basement - a cross between a Bond villain's lair, MONA-style art gallery and Eurotrash nightclub there's no avoiding the ambition.
Perhaps it's the DJ. Or the birdcage like "private" room suspended over the main dining area. Or the menu stacked with 9-score wagyu, Southern Rock lobster and top-grade sashimi.
It's deliberately, luxuriously over the top, saved from toppling into parody by some key points: a genuine sense of fun, pitch-perfect service and some excellent flavours on a menu that unapologetically cherry picks influences from Japan, China, Malaysia and Vietnam.
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der April 2023-Ausgabe von Gourmet Traveller.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der April 2023-Ausgabe von Gourmet Traveller.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
Bereits Abonnent? Anmelden
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
