EYEWITNESS
France's primeur potatoes
Officially the world's priciest potato, La Bonnotte is the pride of Île de Noirmoutier, a French island known for its salt marshes. But is it worth the money? Words: Carolyn Boyd
Potatoes don't usually come with much fanfare, but on the Île de Noirmoutier, off the Atlantic coast of France, the spuds are special. Thanks to the island's gentle microclimate and soil fertilized by seaweed, the 'primeur' (first crop), harvested between mid-March and the end of July, is eagerly welcomed by locals, visitors, and chefs. When I arrive at L'Étier restaurant, near the island's main town of Noirmoutier-en-Île, chef Patrice Millasseau has prepared a feast of potato dishes. There's smooth mashed potato, deep-fried pommes dauphines, his signature potato stuffed with snail in herb butter, and even a glass of his tato milkshake flavoured with the island's saffron. Every creation has the sweet, nutty flavour of the potatoes at its base, and each one is delicious.
Each of the island's potato varieties is harvested at a different time during the season; they include La Sirtéma, with its golden, papery skin and sweet, floury flesh, and La Lady Christl - long, golden, and very versatile. "I make lots of recipes with the island's potatoes because they have a texture you don't find elsewhere," says Patrice. When I tuck in to a potato cake made with La Sirtéma, I'm astonished at how light it is. "More patissiers should use it instead of flour," says Patrice.
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