PERTH

A transformation of the Western Australian capital has seen a revitalised riverfront and laneways, cultural developments and closer ties with the port of Fremantle

- EMMA THOMSON

It’s hard to believe now, but Perth was dubbed ‘Dullsville’ back in 2000. The city has spent the last two decades flipping the script.

Wrapped around the broad blue swathe of the Swan River, its streets have an ego- free blend of street art, speakeasy-style bars and excellent restaurants headed up by top chefs. It’s home to an oddly charming clash of old and new architecture, from the mock-Tudor alleyway of shops called London Court, comparable to Diagon Alley in Harry Potter, to the skyline of mirrored skyscrapers.

Oh, and this is Australia’s sunniest state capital — with an urban green space bigger than New York’s Central Park.

Its refashioning started a decade ago when construction of Elizabeth Quay broke ground, transforming the riverfront into an illuminated pedestrianised loop, lined with restaurants and hotels.

For the first time in a century, the government buried the train tracks separating the nightlife hub of Northbridge and the Central Business District (CBD) and connected the two with the new Yagan Square. This is named after a Nyoongar warrior in recognition of the Whadjuk Nyoongar, the traditional owners of the region. The area now also breezily merges with the little-sister suburb of Fremantle (‘Freo’), whose lively calendar of artistic and musical offerings set amid gold rush and convict-era heritage buildings make it the place to hang out on weekends.