SONGS OF THE SOIL

WITH INDIGENOUS TEXTILES FACING THE WRATH OF FAST FASHION AND CLIMATE CHANGE, INDIAN DESIGNERS ARE RALLYING TO REVIVE AND PRESERVE THESE PRECIOUS WEAVES

- ANURADHA SENGUPTA

IN THE LUSH AND DENSE FORESTS OF the Niyamgiri hills in Odisha, there resides a remarkable tribe known as the Dongria Kondhs. They gained international recognition when they fought against a mega conglomerate to protect their sacred hill from bauxite mining. To the Dongria Kondhs, the Niyamgiri hill represents a deep reverence for nature, intricately woven into their textiles' visual language, particularly exemplified by the revered Kapdaganda shawl.

This sacred cloth symbolises their profound connection with their environment and relationship with the Niyamgiri hills. However, their fight extends beyond environmental conservation. The tribe has been diligently combating the misappropriation of Kapdaganda motifs by various textile brands and design labels. The Kapdaganda shawl, primarily crafted and embroidered by the women of the Dongria Kondh community, has recently secured a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, acknowledging its cultural significance.

"Tribal communities in the Odisha region have a rich legacy of weaves," said Anuradha Kandala, a social entrepreneur whose enterprise Folkweave works with the weavers of South Odisha. Kandala is one of the many people who are working towards the revival and preservation of the textile heritage of tribal communities in India.

ROOT OF THE MATTER

India's rich tradition of tribal textiles is endangered by contemporary fast fashion trends and factors such as climate change, affecting the natural dyes and fibres used to make these textiles.

Apart from grassroots individuals like Kandala, multiple designers who have roots in tribal communities are working to preserve their textile heritage. They create pieces that pay homage to their heritage by skillfully blending traditional techniques and practices with contemporary design.