IT WAS THE SOUND DUES
that changed the fate of a tiny fishing village along the Øresund strait and made it one of the richest towns in Denmark. Introduced by King Eric of Pomerania in 1429, the new toll compelled every ship crossing the strait to stop at Elsinore and pay their dues. For over 400 years, the wealth amassed put Elsinore on the map. Tales of its charisma travelled, and the place was immortalised by Shakespeare in Hamlet.
It was again the Sound Dues in 1857 that changed the status of this town. With the abolishment of the shipping toll, the affluent moved out and the bustling trade came to a halt. Elsinore was forgotten-but it was never lost. The inherent medieval charm oozing from its picturesque settings made it famous once again-this time as the 'cultural city of Denmark'.
A castle or a station?
I began my day of discoveries at the Elsinore train station that was once deemed as 'the most beautiful station in Denmark. Built in 1863, the building, with its towering copper turrets and classic red brickwork, could only be equated to a typical Dutch Renaissance castle. The entrance felt like a royal ballroom with its antiquated chandelier and sweeping staircases. Descending, I almost expected a charming hero in his medieval tunic waiting by the landing and proffering his hand while saying, 'shall we, my lady??. The archaic setting of the train station had perfectly initiated me to the rustic allurement of Elsinore (or Helsingør, as the Danes call it).
Settling the Sound Dues
Outside, the cobblestone paths lined with treasures of the past vied for attention, making it difficult to pick a start. I choose to follow the path of the sailors landing at the harbour and making their way to the Skibsklarerergaarden-a trade house to settle their Sound Dues with the ship broker.
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