PLAYING WITH FIRE
Travel+Leisure US|September 2024
In the forests of Switzerland, some radical chefs are going back to basics.
Gisela Williams
PLAYING WITH FIRE

I STOOD ON THE front terrace of Wiesner Mysterion (doubles from $240), a hotel and restaurant in the tiny village of Bramboden, in the Swiss Alps. Ahead of me was a valley dotted with farms and meadows full of grazing cows. To my right were three massive steel firepits with flames dancing in their centers. Chef Stefan Wiesner threw dried herbs into one of the fires, the silver rings on his fingers glinting. Suddenly, the flames exploded.

For a moment, it felt like I was partaking in an ancient pagan ritual. In fact, I was about to eat one of the best meals of my life, in which everything from the sourdough bread with fresh herbs to the bone marrow and housemade sausages and the trout steamed in moss-had been flavored from the fire.

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