Gary Jackson of Jackson’s Real Food Market, Chris Paulsen of the Bull and Bush butchery, restaurateurs Steve Maresch and Llewy Mateza of The Local Grill, and Roelie van Reenen of Beefmaster, are determined to offer the finest traceable, aged and ethically produced beef to discerning clients. But doing so is not without challenges, writes Gerhard Uys.
Top quality, aged beef can sell at a substantial premium, but as those in the business of producing and serving the best possible beef will tell you, the price charged for these premium cuts does not necessarily translate into enormous profits. The best cuts make up just 12% of saleable meat, which means that the beef processed for mince or sausage must be sold in order to ensure sustainability throughout the value chain.
CONVINCING FARMERS
The process of getting ethically produced, aged beef onto a plate starts at the farm, yet producers who understand niche markets’ needs and the requirements for growing and handling the beef meant for these markets are hard to find, according to Gary Jackson of Jackson’s Real Food Market. Chris Paulsen of the Bull and Bush butchery concurrs.
“Farmers didn’t understand why we would want to age meat the way we did, as they hadn’t done it before,” says Gary. He adds that Chris convinced farmers to work with them by having them taste the difference between well-aged and unaged meat.
“Once they tasted the product they began to care more about what ends up on the plate. They have to receive a premium, however, especially if you tell them they only get paid after ageing.”
Chris says that educating farmers on how to change the way they feed and handle cattle is a task best approached with caution.
“Traditionally, most farmers haven’t been breeding for meat quality but rather for weight gain. The moment I receive the carcass we can tell the farmer if the quality is acceptable. He knows which farm the animal came from and how it was treated, so the process can be replicated.”
Of the 14 farmers who deliver directly to Chris, only one has been able to produce the quality of meat he wants. The rest of the meat, even the best cuts, go straight to the mincer.
Esta historia es de la edición 30 June 2017 de Farmer's Weekly.
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Esta historia es de la edición 30 June 2017 de Farmer's Weekly.
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