The young food service enterprise Grupo Larrumba is not just the fastest growing operator in the Spanish capital at the moment, but also one that is innovatively shaping gastronomic change in the 3 million strong metropolis. It has a total of 22 concepts, and its casual dining outlets are each individually designed and open all day. The range of themes includes Mediterranean, Mexican, Japanese and Indian cuisines; the overall turnover is expected to be €55 m at the end of this year.
By the end of this article, you will not only have a quite complete picture of the Madrid-based Grupo Larrumba, which opened its first restaurant in 2013 and had a portfolio of 18 individual concepts in 18 locations, rather than one single brand, with an average bill of €6 to €40, at the end of 2017. In addition, the article will explain how ambitious casual dining concepts like Larrumba’s are really stirring up Madrid’s gastronomic scene. The full-service restaurant industry used to be characterised by fine dining restaurants, together with a wide variety of fast food suppliers, including traditional tapas bars and, often American-style, cafés. However, completely new players emerged during and after the 2007-2015 economic crisis, the reason being that customers and their demand profile had dramatically changed. People do still like table service, but now they like it all to be relaxed and affordable. And there is a desire for informal gastronomy that combines food and drink (comida y copas), i.e. restaurant and bar. These days, the new protagonists include companies such as the Grupo Tragaluz, En Compañía de Lobos, the Grupo Lalala, Grupo La Ancha or Grupo El Paraguas. And the Grupo Larrumba, of course, which makes its dining rooms into a home from home, focusing on dynamic all-day scenarios rather than static tradition, and cultivating contemporary cosiness rather than timeless formality. What is happening at the moment is more than a shaking of traditional gastronomic pillars – it is an innovative erosion.
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