An Instant Classic

Folgers put the flavor into a bait and switch

- Stuart Elliott

IT WAS MORE THAN JUST JAVA jive when a venerable coffee brand put a new twist on the old switcheroo, influencing two generations of marketers with a distinctive way to celebrate a sneaky surprise.

In 1975, Folgers Coffee brought out an instant variety, Folgers Crystals, with the slogan, “It tastes as rich as it looks.” It’s one thing to claim that; it’s another to prove it to skeptical coffee drinkers. Five years later, the proof arrived— not in the pudding, but in fine china cups at posh restaurants.

In a campaign called “The Great Folgers Switch,” the brand sought to demonstrate its superiority with TV commercials asserting that Folgers instant was good enough to pass muster with patrons of high-class eateries. Remember, this was the ’80s, before coffee culture swept the country—if you wanted to order a fine cuppa, an upscale restaurant was virtually your only bet.