HIDDEN SECRETS OF CHATSWORTH

Janine Sterland discovers the unique story of a very poignant and personal family collection

- Janine Sterland

Glistening on the approach in the early morning sunshine, the ‘Palace of the Peaks’ slowly emerges from an ethereal summer haze. A scene of majestic beauty with historical significance, Chatsworth House stands proudly amongst the flowing Derbyshire hills.

It is always a pleasure to visit, and today is no exception as I am welcomed by Susie Stokoe for an enviable behind the scenes guided tour of the clothing and textiles archives at Chatsworth. As head of the department for the past ten years Susie, along with a dedicated team of experts, manage the storage, conservation and restoration of an extensive and very poignant family collection.

Having trained in woven textiles for fashion with a strong skill set in sewing, Susie has a diverse and interesting background; previously creating bespoke soft furnishings and, as a weaver, developing a deep understanding of fabric construction. Eventually she retrained in conservation after becoming ‘jaded’ by the disposable nature of design and passionately explains that ‘the object, it’s life and history are bigger than what it looks like, it is not just pretty, it has a life’.

Working closely with a committee that includes the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire and Lord and Lady Burlington, her aim is to ‘protect the legacy and integrity’ of historical and contemporary pieces. Over ten years Susie, with her wider team of experts, has planned numerous exciting and logistically demanding exhibitions which, as she explains, have to be carefully and precisely organised.

‘We order and prepare mannequins to fit the garments with numerous layers of protective cushioning. Through this demanding practice of protection and made to measure mannequins, the garments will give an interesting insight and accurate representation of the individual and past generations.’