BAISE BOATING

A self-drive cruising trip is a slow and steady way to enjoy the very best of the French countryside. Lara Dunn discovers the waterways of Lot-et-Garonne

- Lara Dunn

We are sitting outside on a warm early autumn evening, listening to mellow blues played live, enjoying historic Gascony’s finest culinary specialties accompanied by some delicious local Buzet wines.

It couldn’t be more idyllic or ‘French’ really. It’s the final night of a week-long boating journey around Lot-et-Garonne, and we’re handing back the keys to our floating home the next morning. It seems fitting that our farewell meal is on the banks of the canal.

Buzet-Sur-Baïse in Lot-et Garonne gives plenty of options for exploring the waterways of south-west France. Depending on how much time you have, there are numerous options for itineraries. Due to slightly lower than usual water levels on the local rivers, we’d decided to spend a couple of days on the popular Canal de Garonne, followed by a few on the quieter River Baïse, before returning to the Aquitaine Navigation and Nicols boat base located at Buzet-Sur-Baïse.

Formerly known as the Canal Latéral de la Garonne, the Canal de Garonne dates back to the 19th century and runs 193km from Toulouse to Castets-en Dorthe. At one end, it uses the River Garonne to continue to Bordeaux and at the other it joins the Canal du Midi, all together forming the Canal des Deux Mers.

Learning the locks

Starting out on the canal gave us the chance to get a feel for the lock systems (seemingly different for every French waterway!) and to visit the prefecture of the Lot-et-Garonne département Agen, which we thought might be large enough to provide Sunday evening dining options beyond cooking on board.