Perm, ul. Sibirskaya 33 Founded 1987
Perm, a million-resident city on the banks of the Kama River (the city’s name means “faraway land” in Finno-Ugric), was the childhood home of ballet impresario Sergei Pavlovich Diaghilev. Born in 1872, Diaghilev moved to St. Petersburg at a young age and there (when just 26) helped found World of Art – one of the first and most prominent Russian art journals (and before that a vibrant art movement) of the last century. Yet he is best known for being the creator of Ballet Russes, the ballet company that united some of the most distinguished names in Russian art: composer Igor Stravinsky, ballerina Anna Pavlova, and pioneer of the Russian avant-garde, Natalia Goncharova. In the words of Coco Chanel, Ballet Russes “introduced Russia to the West.”
For most of the last century, few could identify the former Diaghilev residence in Perm, or even knew of the building’s existence. The Diaghilev family, which had long lived beyond its means, was bankrupted in 1890 and left Perm for St. Petersburg soon thereafter. Later, their nineteenth century home (built in 1852), became a bank and then a women’s gymnasium*; in 1926 it was converted into Gymnasium Number 11 – an unremarkable, slightly unkempt school.
Diaghilev was living in Paris when the Bolshevik revolution took hold, and he refused to return to Russia, earning him the everlasting approbation of Soviet authorities; he was etched out of Russian artistic history for much of the century that followed.
Perm, meanwhile, became a thriving regional industrial capital and a center for the development of artillery. Thus closed to foreigners, its isolation and the impresario’s anti-Soviet reputation served to obscure the city’s Diaghilev legacy for decades.
Esta historia es de la edición January/February 2018 de Russian Life.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor ? Conectar
Esta historia es de la edición January/February 2018 de Russian Life.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor? Conectar
Sidewalk Art
The lamentable state of Russia’s roads and sidewalks has long been fertile ground for memes and jokes. Irkutsk artist Ivan Kravchenko decided to turn the problem into an art project. For over two years he has been patching ruts in city sidewalks with colorful ceramic tiles.
Sputnik V: First Place or Long Shot?
The Russian vaccine seems top-notch, but low public trust and a botched rollout remain formidable barriers to returning to normalcy.
the Valley of the Dead
On the Trail of a Russian Movie Star
Food & Drink
Food & Drink
POLAR YOUTH
Misha Smirnov has the day off. There are the traditional eggs for breakfast and the usual darkness out the window.
Russian Chronicles
Russian Chronicles
A People on the Brink
Over the past century, the ancient people known as the Votes has been exiled twice, has seen its language banned, and has faced the threat of having its villages razed. Today, although teetering on the verge of extinction, it holds fast to one of the last rights it enjoys – the right to bear and to say its own name.
Tenders of the Vine
Visiting Russia’s Nascent Wine Region
Restoring the Future
A Small Town Gets a Makeover
Ascending Anik
Here I stand, on the summit of Anik Mountain, drenched to the bone amid zero visibility, driving rain, and a fierce wind.