Dreaming Of Wagyu
Sussex Life|December 2018

I ’m dreaming of a white Christmas, the song goes. Maybe, but certainly not a Marco Pierre White one. When he exploded onto the British restaurant scene in 1987 he was the most exciting chefs around, and within a few years had become the first in the UK to be awarded three Michelin stars.

Dreaming Of Wagyu

I loved going to eat in his places. They were fun, unpredictable and mostly brilliant. Then in 1999 he stepped down, gave back his stars, and went into business for a number of years. He does now again cook in two restaurants in London, but his name is used to front what in my experience is an utterly dismal franchise. Lara and I have had the misfortune to eat in three. The first was so dreadful I don’t even want to remember where it is. The waiter asked me how to open the wine bottle, and then into which glass white wine should be poured.

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