The Staying Power Of Olivier Rousteing

Over the course of his 11-year tenure at Balmain, the designer has challenged the Paris fashion establishment at every turn. Along the way, he has transformed the brand into a global juggernaut, turning his sceptics into believers

- Alice Cavanagh

On a grey winter day in Paris, when a persistent drizzle dishevels even its chicest residents, Olivier Rousteing arrives at the Balmain headquarters in impeccable form. Dressed in all black, he radiates the star power of someone who is perpetually photo‑ready. Even at 10am.

Since Rousteing assumed the creative director role at Balmain in 2011, his image has been a billboard for the brand. With 7.9 million followers on Instagram, he represents the modern‑day celebrity our digital lives have shaped: The kind who seems glamorous and relatable at once. It’s a paradox he has harnessed since he took on the job at the age of 25, when he became not only the youngest creative director in Paris since Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior, but also one of the first Black designers to helm a luxury fashion house.

Without subscribing to what is done or expected, and often living designer, redefined what it means to be a luxury brand. Long before most, he embraced social media and influencers, elements once seen as in bad taste by his competitors. His vision of the Balmain woman was always inclusive and sometimes divisive, and he had foresight: He cast Rihanna in her first luxury fashion campaign in 2013 and, a year later, Kim Kardashian, alongside Ye, in theirs. He has also expanded the brand’s reach by introducing menswear, relaunching couture, and moving beyond traditional fashion channels with music festivals, a streaming short‑form drama series, and collaborations that span from Netflix to Barbie.