The great British ‘sourfaux' scandal

If you’re going to fork out £4 for an artisan loaf, you better make sure it’s the real thing

- Joanna Blythman

I’m one of those people who will pay £3.50 (or even more) for a sourdough loaf, providing it’s a really good one. In that case, the elevated price is justified. As Good Food’s sourdough supremo, Barney Desmazery, puts it, ‘Real sourdough takes a lot longer, and a lot more skill to produce.’ But many think this makes me a fool, as they expect no loaf to cost more than £2, ever.

I’ve tried to evangelise to them the benefits of real sourdough: the slightly acidic, fermented tang that makes the crumb lively; the crunchy crust that yields a treacly nuttiness as you chew it; the heft that sates the appetite, yet proves surprisingly digestible; the natural moistness that helps it keep well.