April 15, 2O17. As I was leaving Giuseppe Mascarello’s cellar in Monchiero, the sky was menacing, an ominous shade of green and black. By the time I reached La Morra, the dark clouds had unleashed a torrential rain. In 20 minutes it was over, leaving remnants of hail pellets on the ground. The Neive commune of Barbaresco bore the brunt of the damage, along with Alta Langa and parts of Asti. The vines were two weeks in advance, some already bearing shoots a foot to a foot-and-a-half long, due to the unseasonably warm weather.
If the storm that day wasn’t bad enough, the following week brought three nights of freezing temperatures, causing frost in low-lying areas and an average loss of 20% in the affected vineyards.
The season changed course, however, and the summer turned hot, with very dry conditions in July and August. But the vintage wasn’t as hot as some other scorchers, such as 2011 or 2003, and the Barolos aren’t stamped with the character of a hot vintage, thanks to ample water reserves from the spring rains as well as cool summer nights and favorable weather during the crucial ripening phase in September.
Although the Nebbiolo harvest came early— and was mostly finished by the end of September—the growing season itself was long, due to the precocious growth in the spring, yielding fine conditions for ripening Nebbiolo. Yet the crop was 20% to 30% lower than average for Barolo overall, and less wine was made, in part, because of the small, thick-skinned berries.
Esta historia es de la edición April 30, 2022 de Wine Spectator.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor ? Conectar
Esta historia es de la edición April 30, 2022 de Wine Spectator.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor? Conectar
Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Öland, an island off the coast of Sweden—and it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern Rhône to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term “foodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.
