The Other Kuta Surfing Southern Lombok

Well away from Senggigi and the popular Gili Islands, the southern side of Lombok is a surf hotspot with a wave for everyone, as Carolyn Beasley discovers.

It’s like Bali 30 years ago,” I’ve heard declared several times about Lombok, Bali’s eastern neighbour, and I’m here to say: “No, it’s not.” Although the two are only separated by around 20 kilometres of water, Lombok is not like Bali, past or present. While Bali is green and lush, Lombok tends to be dry and rugged. The culture, religion and even the animals of Lombok are different to those of Bali, and – most obviously – tourism is far less developed.

One thing Bali and Lombok do have in common, though, is pumping surf, with Lombok offering clean and relatively uncrowded waves.

With these differences in mind, southern Lombok seemed a great destination for a 40th birthday surf trip. We were eight surfers, with abilities ranging from first-timer and OK-but-rusty to legendary. With the hope of accommodating all of our surf requirements, we proceeded to Kuta Beach.

Only 25 minutes’ drive from the airport, Kuta presents a dusty collection of roadside warungs (openair restaurants) and a few makeshift shops all selling the same souvenirs. Cries of “Mister, you make me bankrupt!” can be heard as local kids haggle with tourists over homemade bracelets, followed by their mothers touting sarongs. Despite a few hassles, Kuta is a handy base in close proximity to many surf spots.

The closest surf break, Segar Beach, is at the front of our resort. After check-in, I stroll towards the beach, only to be puzzled by the sound of distant thunder. Only, it’s not thunder; transfixed, I watch in goosebumped terror as mountains of water pound the rocks just beyond the lagoon.