Xavier Gramona is the gentle warrior taking up the fight for top-end Cava to the consumer. June Lee examines why Gramona might be your sparkling wine of choice in 2019.
The urban slicker, white-haired fifth-generation owner of Gramona is pacifist by nature, but he’s been leading a quest to improve Cava’s image for almost two decades. Xavier Gramona, 59, is a man of philosophy, who chooses his words with care and spends a good 10 minutes probing the merits of character versus personality. Just like his exemplary aged sparkling wines that can cost up to US$150, he’s not in a rush to reveal himself.
‘Budget champagne’
Sparkling wine in the traditional method of Champagne was made in Spain since the 1860s. It was often referred to as champán, a practice that ceased after 1972 when the Consejo Regulador de los vinos Espumosos (Regulatory Council of Sparkling Wines) established the use of the word ‘cava’ instead to avoid dispute with France. Cava simply means caves or cellars, referring to the storage areas where the wine is aged before it turns into a sparkling wine due to secondary fermentation in the bottle.
The problem for producers like Xavier is that his biodynamic, handcrafted and artisanal Cavas share the same shelf space as $5 options, preventing the industry from moving away from its cheap image. While the Council in 2017 announced a new designation of Cava de Paraje Calificado, akin to a grand cru-like labelling for specific terroir-driven Cava, the initiative hasn’t gone far enough for some producers.
Esta historia es de la edición December 2018 de Epicure Magazine.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor ? Conectar
Esta historia es de la edición December 2018 de Epicure Magazine.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
Ya eres suscriptor? Conectar
Holiday Feast
Celebrate this joyous season with classic fare from Wolfgang’s Steakhouse
Savour the season
Gather your friends for a joyous celebration at Pan Pacific Singapore's Pacific Emporium - one of the best spots, we think, to indulge in a festive afternoon tea.
Plant-Powered Paradise
Exploring Seoul's Burgeoning Vegetarian Food Scene
Brewing tradition, bottling innovation
Chunpoong Brewery is safeguarding a cherished Korean beverage, makgeolli, while embracing innovation for a new era.
Home is where the heart is
The best memories are often made at home, something which Hideaway, Nae:um Group's latest venue featuring a cosy design inspired by nature, is venture, aims to recreate.
The Life Aquatic
On board Oceania Cruises' Riviera, a luxurious two-week voyage along the Southeast Asian coastline delivers on its promise as a food lover's paradise at sea, offering an array of specialty restaurants, thoughtfully re-inspired menus, and a state-of-the-art cooking school.
Bright lights, big city
Going to Bangkok for an extended weekend? We've narrowed down a few places for you to swing by.
Sun, sea and banh mi
NOX Beach Club in Central Vietnam is a balmy haven for daytime escapes and after-dark events. Plus you will never go hungry here thanks to the collection of six restaurants and bars.
Laneway stars
Melbourne shines bright with its bevy of dining gems and new luxe hotels. It's time to revisit this well-loved destination.
Spiced and praised
These spice-centric East Indies Gins from Spice Island Distilling Co. have been acclaimed for their authentic excellence.