ODE TO Legacy

In an exclusive for Bazaar, couturier Raghavendra Rathore takes us on a journey through the lanes of his beloved Jodhpur...and opens the doors to his home and heritage hotel, Ajit Bhawan Palace

- Raghavendra Rathore

My earliest recollections of Jodhpur are of merunning through the jaali (lattice) corridors of the zanana (women’s) section of my home, the Ajit Bhawan, into my grandmother’s lap. She was the central figure of the house, surrounded by a constant buzz of activity—it was a multifaceted world where women were the decision-makers, surrounded by textile merchants from Benaras, jewellers from across India, perfumers with their delicate bottles, and waves of ladies who would come to pay respects to her, not only since she was married into the Jodhpur family, but also because she was the sister of the Maharaja of Jaipur.

From here, I would find my way to my mother’s chambers, where she would let me muddle my hands with paints and canvas that she put to good use during her time in purdah, while training me how to sketch and draw. In contrast, the mardana (men’s) section on the ground floor level had a strong sense of masculinity both in atmosphere and architecture, a contrast to the delicately-designed upper floor.